Monday, October 13, 2008

Pamplona, Spain: Day 3

I awoke the next morning with only one goal on my mind. I simply had to find a professional bull-fighter and interview him. I quickly dressed, grabbed a pastry for breakfast, and headed out the front door of the hotel. It didn't take long before I found who I was looking for.

I found a young matador dressed up in his bull-fighting attire a few blocks from where I was staying. I was saddened to learn that he was not on his way to a fight, but I took the opportunity to ask him about his profession. He explained to me that he considers it an honor to be the one to take the bull's life due to respect for the bull. He explained that the art of bullfighting is not seen as a gross display of animal slaughter, but an opportunity to admire the courage and nobility of the bull as it fights for its life.

After our long conversation, the young matador invited me to come with him to the Plaza del Castillo for several rounds of drinks (www.tripadvisor.com). I accepted his offer, but after one round, I thought it best to call a cab to take me to the airport. I paid $26 for my cab fare, and when I made it to the airport, I bought a ticket to Paris for $1101 (www.tripadvisor.com). I was ready to get out of Spain.

Pamplona, Spain: Day 2

I woke up the next morning to the sound of the garbage trucks hauling all of the trash away that remained after the San Fermin Festival. I went down to the lobby for breakfast, and I ended up eating what appeared to be some form of Spanish oatmeal with fresh fruit. After breakfast, I made my way down into the streets of Pamplona for a look around.

After nearly thirty minutes of walking, my eyes met with the Pamplona Cathedral (www.tripadvisor.com). I thought it appropriate to stop in a say a few prayers for those that were injured in yesterday's "festivities." Hemingway himself was not a strong religious man, but one of his wives was a devout Catholic. For this reason, visiting the cathedral seemed like a good way to tap into the psyche of Hemingway once again. After I attended an evening Mass, I went back to the hotel to reflect upon my travels thus far. I was asleep by 11:00 pm.

Pamplona, Spain:Day 1

I woke up in Pamplona, Spain at 8:30 in the morning. From the airport, I took a cab to the hotel I stayed at while in Pamplona. When I arrived at my hotel, I paid the driver $27, and I unloaded what luggage I had from the taxi. Next, I checked into the Residencia Eslava, and I paid the $84 per night fee in advance (www.tripadvisor.com). Directly after I had checked in, a local man informed me of the San Fermin Festival. The Festival was one of Hemingway's favorites as it involved the running of the bulls.

Rather than get trampled and gored by a bull, I viewed the running of the bulls from the balcony of my hotel room. I watched in amazement as the bulls ran unchecked through the streets of Pamplona. I must have seen at least fifty people escorted away in ambulances. They were just young thrill-seekers who, apparently, had no concept of fear. I wasn't sure how to consider the actions of those that were down among the charging bulls; were they courageous or were they foolish? I went down later on in the evening to survey some of the damage myself just out of curiosity. As soon as I lost interest, I went back up to the safety of my hotel room, and I went to sleep. It was around 10:00 pm.

Ketchum, ID: Day 3

I awoke the next morning to the sound of songbirds. It was 7:35 am when I checked my watch. For breakfast, I ate leftover bass from the night before. I bathed in the lake after breakfast simply so I could say I did, and then I packed up my camping gear and loaded it back into the rental car.
From my campsite, I drove into town to visit the Gail Severn Gallery.

Admission into the gallery was $30 (www.tripadvisor.com). I walked all around the gallery admiring various works of art. Once again, I was reminded of Hemingway's own artistic ability as a writer. He made it his mission and purpose in life to pen one true sentence into existence. It was a purpose that took him all over the world. Hemingway wrote about what he knew. From his travels he came to know the world, and the world is what he wrote about. In doing so, he accomplished his goal and completed his purpose as a writer. That is why Hemingway is viewed as one of the best authors in all of history. Yes, my travels have been fun and special in their own way, but the real reward has been found in tracing the life of this extraordinary man. It has been an honor to travel in the footsteps of Ernest Hemingway. His shoes, however, no amateur will ever fill.

Ketchum, ID: Day 2

I woke up at 9:00 am the following morning. My breakfast consisted of a bagel and a glass of orange juice. After breakfast, I loaded the rental car with a tent, firewood, a sleeping bag, matches, a fishing pole, bait and tackle, a fillet knife, and a hatchet. My day's destination would be Redfish Outlook Lake (www.tripadvisor.com).

When I arrived at the lake after a short drive, I set up camp for the night. Once that was taken care of, I rigged up my fishing pole and prepared for a day of nothing else but fishing and relaxation. It was then that I really came to love fishing. I finally became familiar with that feeling of being in tune with nature that Hemingway valued so very much. With the birds singing and the fish biting, the day proved to be a wonderful one.

By the end of the day, I had managed to catch three small-mouth bass and five blue-gill. I threw the blue-gill back into the lake, but I cleaned the three bass and cooked them over an open flame. The fish cooked well, and I found satisfaction in being self-sufficient. I slept in my tent that night instead of going back to the lodge. I wanted to spend my last night of the trip as close to nature as Hemingway would have wanted to. I was asleep by 10:45 pm.

Sunday, October 12, 2008

Ketchum, ID: Day 1

I woke up on the plane that brought me back to the States. It was 8:00 in the morning when I got off the plane and found breakfast. There was a Dunkin' Donuts in the airport, so i seized the opportunity and bought a couple of donuts and a cup of coffee for $4. After breakfast, I got into the rental car that the airline provided me with, and I drove to Sun Valley Lodge in Ketchum.

Once I arrived, I made a special request for room 206 because it was once inhabited by Papa Hemingway. I checked in and paid my $129 visitor's fee. It was sort of eerie to be staying in the room where Hemingway stayed in the later years of his life. If I was superstitious, I would've thought that the room was haunted, but I never saw a ghost while I stayed there, and nothing terribly strange happened.

Later in the afternoon, I hit the slopes and gave skiing a shot. As it turns out, I am a terrible skier seeing as I spend more time on the ground than I do on my skis. After nearly two hours of letting gravity beat the tar out of me, I went back inside the lodge, and got in the hot tub to soothe my aching muscles. Afterwards, I sipped hot cocoa by the fireplace in the lobby, and I was in bed by 10:00 pm.

Havana, Cuba: Day 3

After waking up at 8:00 in the morning, I made an early decision to devote the entire day to visiting places Hemingway had been. I ate the remainder of a cold Cuban sandwich for breakfast, and I was on my way. To pass the time and to get plenty of exercise, I decided to walk to all of my daily destinations.

My first stop was Watch Tower Farm. It was the house Hemingway inhabited while he wrote The Old Man and the Sea. The admission price for a tour ended up being $5 (www.tripadvisor.com). I was able to see the very room where Ernest complied one of his most loved works. The room was peaceful; it was the perfect place for brainstorming, and it had to be considered a sanctuary to the man himself.

It was nearly 4:00 in the afternoon when i left Hemingway's Havana residence. Hunger struck, so I found my way to El Floridita. There, I ordered yet another Cuban sandwich and a virgin daiquiri. It is rumored that Hemingway himself aided in creating the daiquiri at this very restaurant (www.tripadvisor.com). When I was finished eating, I paid my bill of $17, and I hitchhiked my way to the airport in order to avoid government sponsored transportation. At the airport, I purchased my ticket out of Havana for $351. Once in Cancun, I bought a ticket to Sun Valley, ID for $516 (www.expedia.com). I slept on both flights.

Havana, Cuba: Day 2

I woke up this morning at 9:30 am. I decided that today I would try to get a good feel for the local life here in Havana. I walked from my hotel to La Bodeguita (www.tripadvisor.com) in search of local people and local cuisine. I finally located it at around 11:00 am. I walked in, and quickly took up a conversation with a local man who turned out to be a deep sea fisherman. I ordered us some drinks and cigars, and we enjoyed them as I listened to him recount his tales of fishing for marlin off the shores of Havana. Before long, it was time for lunch.

I ordered a couple of classic Cuban sandwiches to end our mid-day hunger. The hot-pressed bread with deli style meat and the all important pickles really hit the spot. The sandwiches together cost $8 (www.tripadvisor.com). The rest of my day was spent looking at pictures from the old fisherman's wallet and accompanying him down memory lane.

Oddly enough, the old fisherman reminded me very much of Santiago. Like Santiago, he took pride in his work with a peculiar humility that is hard to come by. All things aside, he was a good man, and I wished him much luck in the future. After I said my goodbyes, I made it back to Ambos Mundos and collapsed on the bed at 10:30 pm.

Havana, Cuba: Day 1

I'm not sure how I feel about waking up in a hostile Communist country, but at least the beaches are nice even if the government isn't. I hitchhiked from the airport to my hotel. I will be staying at Ambos Mundos while in Havana. The hotel holds special significance to the trip because it is where Hemingway wrote his portrayal of the Spanish Civil War, For Whom the Bell Tolls. The cost for staying is $87 per night(www.tripadvisor.com).

As soon as I was registered and my room was in order, I walked down to the beach to the Malecon for some free fishing. I bought a fishing pole and some bait from a bait and tackle store for $24. It wasn't long before I found myself empathizing with Santiago's character from The Old Man and the Sea. Fishing, it seems, has a great deal to do with luck. Perhaps I too have become salao. No wonder it took Santiago 84 days to get a fish to bite. Just when I had lost all hope, something tugged on my line, and five minutes later, I was holding a seven pound Spanish mackerel.

I made the most of my fish that night by roasting it over an open flame. It proved to be a satisfying meal. I went back to my room at Ambos Mundos at 9:00 that night and went to bed. I didn't want to be caught out past curfew by any communist policemen.

Venice, Italy: Day 3

I awoke at 10:00 am the next morning. I decided early on that my final day in Venice was going to be a day of relaxation after the hectic Carnival the day before. There is nothing more tiring than parading around dressed as a dead author and getting crapped on by pigeons. I had the usual croissant with coffee for breakfast. Afterwards, I walked along the canals while searching for my next stop.

Then I found it. It happened to be Harry's Bar. It so happens that Hemingway himself visited the bar a couple of times. I settled on ordering the house specials for a sort of lunch. I ordered a Carpaccio dessert and a famous Bellini to drink. Both items were rather tasty. My tab ended up being somewhere in the range of $41 (www.tripadvisor.com).

By the time I made it to Piccolo Mondo, it was after dark. Piccolo Mondo functions as a club at night, and is frequented by young people (www.tripadvisor.com). While I was at the club, I applied my Hemingway-esque mannerisms once again, and I managed to make a couple of new, and quite good-looking, "friends." Unfortunately, I had to leave them because my plane, routed for Havana was due to leave soon. My route included a temporary stop in Cancun; the cost of flying to Cancun was $1581 with America Airlines (www.expedia.com). From Cancun, I took a flight to Havana with a ticket price of $341. Apart from switching planes in Cancun, I slept the whole way there.

Venice, Italy: Day 2

I woke up in my luxurious room at the Hotel Bucintoro at 9:30 in the morning. The hotel provided coffee and a croissant for breakfast. After eating and trying to read a local newspaper to no avail, I exited the hotel and strolled on over to the Piazza San Marco. The Plaza was full of history. It has been the setting for many significant events in world history, and it is sometimes referred to as the drawing room of the world (www.tripadvisor.com). It would make sense why Hemingway would come here to seek out new material to write about. Apart from the obnoxiously large pigeon population, there is nothing not to love about the Plaza or even the city.

I was fortunate to visit Venice at Carnival time. While I was at the Piazza San Marco, I was intrigued by the many masquerade style costumes that met my eyes. When I saw the costumes, I did the only sensible thing I could think of. I went to a costume shop, and I bought a bearded mask for $13. I'm not sure my Hemingway costume was all that convincing, but it was entertaining nonetheless. I walked around the Plaze until nightfall when the lights came on. There was something truly magical about the atmosphere surrounding the Plaza at night. I could've stayed at the Piazza San Marco all night and still felt entertained, but my desire to get a good night's sleep won out. I returned to my hotel room and fell asleep by 11:45 pm.

Venice, Italy: Day 1

By this time, I've become accustomed to falling asleep in one continent and waking up in another. Venice should be a nice change from the hectic and occasionally dangerous experiences I underwent while in Africa. After I stepped off the terminal, I located breakfast. I thoroughly enjoyed a coffee with biscotti for $6 after nearly a week of rice, beans, and power bars. Kenya Airways paid for my transportation to my hotel in Venice. It was 9:30 am when I stepped into the cab. When I arrived at the Hotel Bucintoro, I paid the $417 visitor's fee up front (www.tripadvisor.com).

After getting settled, I decided to try my luck at a bit of Hemingway style gambling. I walked to the Casino Municpale, and I handed over $7.80 at the door for admission (www.tripadvisor.com). After losing nearly $100 to the roulette wheel, I decided to try and make Hemingway proud, so I went up to the bar, ordered a whiskey on the rocks, and then I took a seat at the poker table. I found that I neither have the stomach for whiskey, nor the patience for poker. Not all men are born great.

It is altogether possible that I lost a grand total of $1000 at that gosh-forsaken casino. I suppose that is why they call it gambling; sometimes you lose. I went to bed with light pockets and a full stomach. I ate a plate of mascotti while I was at the casino. It cost me $18, but I felt it was well worth it. I turned my room lights off at 11:30 that night.

Uganda, Africa: Day 3

My alarm clock rang at 5:30 am. I almost didn't get up, but then I remembered that this was the day that I would be visiting the Ruwenzori Mountains, the source of the Nile River. I ate fresh fruit for breakfast, and I was able to get my hands on some power bars that I could eat for lunch later on. The wonderful staff at the Emin Pasha Hotel helped me to contact a pilot the day before, and he agreed to take me on an air tour of the mountains for a fee of $50 (www.continentalsafaris.com).

I was astonished as we flew over the Nile at approximately 1:00 that afternoon. I saw some of the famous Cape buffalo that Ernest had written about as we flew by. I wished to see as much as I possibly could, so I helped the pilot avoid landing for lunch by pulling the power bars out of my knapsack. The Ruwenzori Mountains were more beautiful than I could have possibly imagined. The snow-capped peaks of the "Mountains of the Moon" left an impression on me that will last a lifetime. After the sightseeing was done, I instructed the pilot to fly me to the airport back in Nairobi, Kenya. I needed to be in Venice within the next 24 hours. I flew with Kenya Airways for $1513 (www.expedia.com), and slept the whole way there.

Uganda, Africa: Day 2

I woke up the following morning at 6:00. It was time for yet another grueling day of parading around Africa in an attempt to try to emulate one of the greatest authors of all time. Well, I suppose Hemingway was in love with the place, so I should do my best not to complain. Code heroes don't complain; they endure. I found it necessary to take my breakfast on the go. On this day, I decided to travel back to Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in order to see Mount Sabinyo, a volcano and the oldest mountain in the Virunga Mountain chain (www.answers.com).

I have decided that I truly love the Emin Pasha Hotel. They have supplied tour guides for each of my Ugandan expeditions, and I have found the staff to be most accommodating. I couldn't possibly thank them enough when they rolled out that jeep yet again. Nearly one hundred thank-yous later, we were on our way to Mt. Sabinyo.

My guide delivered us both to the base of the volcano at noon. I thought ahead this time, and I packed extra food from breakfast for lunch. My guide, a young man named Eko, and I both dined on rice and beans. Although I am grateful that food was available, I must admit that I'm quickly growing tired of eating so little food with so little flavor, but I shall press on.

After hiking for about one mile, we happened upon group of competing male gorillas. As I watched them battle it out for what seemed like an eternity, I was reminded of Hemingway's character, Santiago, from The Old Man and the Sea. It reminded me of the time during the story when it mentioned Santiago's arm wrestling match that lasted for longer than a day. Eventually, one of the gorillas dominated the other, and the excitement was over. It was time to start heading back. As we were walking back down the mountain, I picked up a small volcanic rock as a momento. Eko and I pulled into the Emin Pasha at 10:00. I had never been so tired in my life. For once, sleep was exciting.

Uganda, Africa: Day 1

I woke up in the Kenyan's jeep at 7:00 in the morning, and fortunately enough, we made it to the Emin Pasha Hotel. I paid the Kenyan $200 for the ride after he helped me move my gear into the hotel. I registered at the front desk and paid the $250 nightly fee (www.tripadvisor.com). I explained that I needed a ride to Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, and the staff at the hotel set me up with a driver and a tour guide.

At noon I arrived in the national park. I was almost shocked when my tour guide pointed out a group of large male silver-back gorillas. I wondered if Hemingway could have won a wrestling match with one of those bad boys. I pondered that thought as my guide and I hiked all the way to Lake Mutanda. Once we got to the lake, I watched in fascination as a hippo bit a crocodile completely in half. After watching the hippo enjoying a mid-day meal, I was reminded of my own hunger. I asked my guide if he had anything to eat, and he produced a quart-sized bag of trail mix, and two small oranges straight from his bag. As we sat there eating, I listened to him tell me all about the various types of wildlife that inhabited the lake. At about 3:00 in the afternoon, he suggested that we head back to the hotel in order to avoid any unpleasant interference from the predatory wildlife. I was able to enjoy yet another African sunset as we drove back to the Emin Pasha Hotel. After a long day of hiking and dodging crocodiles, the comfort of my bed was unbelievable. I slept like a log, or perhaps like a narcoleptic hippo.

Kenya, Africa: Day 3

My guide woke me up at 7:00 in the morning, and we had a breakfast of cold antelope meat and bottled water from my pack. It took us an hour to pack up all of the camp supplies and load them in the jeep. From there, he drove me to my next location in Ukunda, Kenya.

I arrived at Funzi Island for a safari day trip later than I would have preferred, but I found the experience to be worth any inconvenience. For only $195, I was given a boat, all the seafood I could eat, and a chance to see all types of wildlife (www.julius-safaris.com). I paddled down the Ramisi River, and I saw hundreds of crocodiles and a plethora of brightly colored birds. Afterwards, I ate grilled scallops and tilipia fresh off the grill.

At 6:00 pm, I hired a local to drive me to the Emin Pasha Hotel in Uganda. It was an extremely long drive. I found myself gazing up at the stars that dotted the African sky. I fell asleep thinking about how Hemingway once looked upon the same stars.

Kenya, Africa: Day 2

I woke up at 8:00 to housekeeping knocking on my door the following morning. I quickly dressed, and went downstairs to the lobby for a free breakfast that was provided by the lodge. It consisted of a tasty selection of beans, rice, and fresh fruit. After breakfast, I loaded up my gear and walked outside. Just outside the lodge, I noticed a group of local children playing soccer, and I thought about how Hemingway valued athletic ability. Just past the soccer game, I saw my tour guide.

My guide, a local Kenyan, helped me load up my things into his jeep, and we drove all the way to the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Along the way, he pointed out a herd of antelope, a group of elephants, and a lone cheetah. We soon arrived at the base of the mountain. It was 12:00 noon.

My guide informed me that we would be hiking the Marnagu Trail (www.tripadvisor.com). I stood in awe before the beautiful giant that is Mt. Kilimanjaro. I thought back to Hemingway's book The Snows of Kilimanjaro. It was easy to understand how Ernest was so smitten by its beauty. We hiked the trail for about five miles, but then we turned around. I desperately wanted to try to scale it, but I was certain there would not be enough time. With that in mind, my guide and I prepared camp. I set up the tent and built a fire while my guide went hunting. He returned an hour later with a freshly killed antelope. We were asleep in the tent by midnight.

Kenya, Africa: Day 1

I arrived in Kenya at about 10:00 am. I exited the airport terminal and located a taxi as soon as I could. My driver was an old Kenyan named Jonathan. I asked Jonathan if he had ever heard of Ernest Hemingway, and he proceeded to tell me that he once drove a cab for Papa Hemingway when he was spending time in Kenya. He also praised Hemingway for his work in The Snows of Kilimanjaro.

I paid Jonathan $10 for the ride, and I gazed upon my lodging for the night. Upon checking into the Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge, I paid $195 (www.tripadvisor.com) for my overnight stay. Around 5:00 pm, when I finished buying survival gear for my trip ($354), I walked to the Velvet Bar and Grill for dinner. I ate a good meal for only $8. Afterwards, I went back to the room and sorted out my supplies for the next day's hike up to Mt. Kilimanjaro. I prepared a pack with plenty of water bottles, a small first aid kit, an industrial strength long hunting knife, a box of matches, a two-man tent, a change of clothes, a parka, and rain gear. All of the organizing left me feeling very tired, so I went to bed at 11:00 pm.

Paris, France: Day 3

For the last time, I woke up in Paris, France. After a rather uneventful day yesterday, I settled on viewing some art. I hopped on my bicycle, and I rode all the way to Musee de D'Orsay. This art museum is famous for the works of Manet, Degas, and Monet. Twelve dollars was a small price to pay for the aesthetic experience I gained by admiring the inspirational paintings (www.tripadvisor.com). I reflected upon how difficult it must have been for Hemingway to use a single sentence to express the kinds of things these artists expressed with a paintbrush.

After visiting the museum, I dined on escargot at a nearby cafe for a mere $21. It reminded me of eating a particularly salty booger drenched in garlic butter. I then paid a $33 dollar cab fare to get to the airport; I sold the bike to a little, blind French boy in order to pay for the cab. At the airport, I bought my plane ticket to Nairobi, Kenya for $1076 (www.tripadvisor.com). I decided I would sleep while riding on the plane.

Paris, France: Day 2

I woke up at 7:00 the next morning, and I decided to go to the Cafe de Flore. Once I got there, I encountered one of the infamous rude waiters. After suppressing a desire to smack my waiter, I ordered an omlette and a large cup of herbal tea. My tab ended up being $32 total (www.frommers.com). I've decided that the French are thieves.

After I left the cafe, I rode my stolen bicycle around Paris in order to do some sightseeing. I decided I needed a long rest after my bike ride, so I went back to Hotel de le Tour Eiffel. Back in the comfort of my room, I read some Hemingway memoirs until I fell asleep for the night.

Paris, France: Day 1

Pamplona was nice, but now I've been turned loose on the City of Lights. I woke up at the airport this morning, and I ate my little bag of airline peanuts for breakfast. Then, I went to the airport bookstore, and I purchased a cheap, paperback French dictionary for approximately $14. I found a taxi once I made my way out of the airport, and I was amused to discover that my driver was, in fact, a mime. I felt secure knowing we were safe inside our invisible glass box. Pepe the French mime drove me to Hotel de le Tour Eiffel. I was tempted to pay him with invisible money, but I forked over $30 for the cab fare.

I checked into the hotel, and made my deposit of $222 (www.tripadvisor.com). From there, Pepe escorted me to the Eiffel Tour. It was close to 1:00 in the afternoon, and when I mentioned something about being hungry, Pepe pulled a baguette out from under his hat. I was almost finished eating when Pepe's cab got a flat tire. He didn't have a spare, so he tried calling a tow truck. Unfortunately, Pepe was most definitely a mime. Therefore, I thanked him for the ride, and I started off on my own.

It was dusk by the time I made it to the Eiffel Tower. I paid $46.86 (www.tripadvisor.com) for a trip up inside the world-famous landmark. At the top, I admired Paris in all of its beauty. Such a place certainly must have inspired Hemingway while he was still blooming as a young writer.
I managed to steal a hobo's bicycle outside of the cafe in which I ate my evening meal. I rode the bicycle back to Hotel de le Tour Eiffel and got some much deserved rest.

Valencia, Spain: Day 3

My alarm clock rang at 9:30 in the morning. I had a sweet tooth that morning so I ate some leftover marzipan. As for my activities of the day, I asked the woman at the front desk. She had not yet led me astray, so I resolved to continue to trust her judgment. Today's festival was the Feria de Julio Festival (www.tripadvisor.com). The woman encouraged me to walk around the city in order to see what the festival had to offer, so I did just that.

One block away from the hotel, I encountered a stage set up in the street. On the stage musicians played traditional Valencian music while men and women danced together to the rhythm. Farther on down the street, children were setting off firecrackers and other small fireworks. I almost passed up an opportunity to see a theater production of Don Quixote, but I noticed to sign outside the building, and I rushed inside. I spent the next three hours completely absorbed in the plot.

As I exited the theater, was astounded by the many scents and colors that came with the flower parade. I soon learned this part of the day was what the festival was all about. As soon as I had had enough, I took a taxi to the airport, paid the $23 fee, bought a $287 plane ticket to Pamplona, got on the plane, and slept the whole way there.

Valencia, Spain: Day 2

I awoke at 10:00 in the morning to the smell of gunpowder in the air. I went down to the lobby of the hotel and ate a simple meal of toast and fresh fruit. I was fortunate enough to be in Valencia the day of the Saint Donis Marzipan Confectionery (www.tripadvisor.com). This Valencian festivial is the Spanish equivalent of Valentine's day. It celebrates King Jaime I's victory over the Moorish forces. During the festival, it is customary for the men to give marzipan sweets to their sweethearts.

After the receptionist at the hotel had finished telling me all this, I made my way to the nearest marzipan store and bought $40 worth of marzipan. After acquiring that much sugar, I did what Hemingway would've done; I traveled the streets looking for not just one sweetheart, but a great number of them. After wooing a number of potential sweethearts, I gave them all the slip and made it back to the hotel. I was in bed by 11:00 pm.

Valencia, Spain: Day 1

I woke up in stunning Valencia, Spain at 8:00 am. After getting off the plane, I went down to the baggage claim, and I was disgusted to discover that my luggage had been lost. I'm not sure where luggage goes when it is "lost." Apparently, nowadays, it just leaps off the plane. Well, they never found my luggage, but the airline was kind enough to give a free taxi ride to the hotel I will be staying at while in Valencia.

After the mayhem at the airport, I finally arrived at the Beta Hotel Valencia at 4:00 in the afternoon. I checked in and paid the $89 per night visitor's fee (www.tripadvisor.com). When I asked about activities here in Valencia, the woman at the front desk informed me of the International Festival of Pyrotechnics. She told me that it would start at midnight, and she said that it was one of Europe's most impressive fireworks displays. The name rung a bell. It was the same festival Hemingway was so taken with.

I showed up to the festival at exactly 12:00 midnight, and it was well worth it. I had never seen or heard such fireworks. It seemed like every five seconds something was lighting up or exploding. After the show, the air in the city was full of the strong smoke of gunpowder. I decided it was time to turn in. I made it back to the hotel, and I was asleep by 2:30 am.

Oak Park, IL: Day 3

I was woken the next morning by a knock at my door. I'm still not completely sure how I made it back to Under the Ginko Tree, but perhaps it is best that I don't. I was surprised to see my receptionist friend when I answered the door. It was 1:00 in the afternoon, but breakfast was still being served, so we ate a very late brunch.

After checking out at the front desk for the final time, my companion and I walked outside and made our way to one of the town's parks. We spent the entire afternoon talking about Hemingway. When Ernest's chauvinistic attitude towards women was brought up, I thought it better to simply smile and nod at the particularly nasty things she had to say.

We decided to grab a bite to eat at a French restaurant aptly named, Hemingway's Bistro. It turned out to be a fantastic meal. I ordered grilled lamb chops for a price of $24.95 (hemingwaysbistro.com). After the meal's conclusion, I asked my friend to accompany me to the airport. We took the CTA train to O'Hare, and I was pleasantly surprised to learn that the fee was waived to first time riders. When we arrived at O'Hare, I bought my ticket for $1496 and said my goodbyes at the gate. I fell asleep while watching a cheesy airline movie.

Oak Park, IL: Day 2

I awoke in the wonderful feather bed once again. It was another day, and that meant another opportunity to try to live like Papa Hemingway. Just like yesterday, I slept in until 10:00 am, and located food as soon as possible. I quickly decided that $75 was a small price to pay when I bit into that first piece of French toast. Hemingway had to have liked French toast. Seriously though, what human being could possibly deny themselves the pleasure. The fact of the matter was, breakfast, as expected, was overly sufficient.

After making reservations for yet another night at Under the Ginko Tree, I flagged down a cab and hopped in. Oddly enough, my driver was an active member in the Ernest Hemingway look alike contest that is held annually in Oak Park. We discussed our equally disturbing fascination with Hemingway as he drove me five miles to my day's destination.

I stepped out of the cab, paid the look alike $20 for the fee, and gazed upon the Hemingway House in the heart of Chicago. The house is actually a thirty-story condominium high rise, but all the same, it is one of those wonderful places that Hemingway visited during his illustrious life (www.dreamtown.com). I managed to coerce the attractive blonde receptionist at the front desk to give me a free tour by applying my Hemingway-esque mannerisms that I have developed over the years. Needless to say, it was a great tour.

As it turned out, we ended up leaving the condo after a wonderful informational tour. We made our way over to an Irish pub that was located a few blocks away at 8:00 in the evening. What else can be said? I love locals.

Friday, October 3, 2008

Oak Park, IL: Day 1

I've decided to start my fantastic journey in Papa Hemingway's hometown of Oak Park, Illinois. Conveniently enough, Oak Park happens to be a suburb of Chicago. So, when I felt like leaving this bustling little suburb, I just had to slide on over to O'Hare, and catch the next plane out of there.

The travel agency saw fit to drop me off at the bed and breakfast I stayed at while in Oak Park. They set me up with a place called Under the Ginko Tree, and it was relatively close to my first day's destination. I woke up the first day at 10:00 am. It was a bit of a long night due to my getting settled at this quaint little bed and breakfast, so I took advantage of the warm feather bed, and I woke refreshed. Breakfast was simply amazing. I devoured a large Belgian waffle, a stack of chocolate chip pancakes, scrambled eggs, six strips of bacon, and about a quart of chocolate milk. I'm paying $75 (www.bnbfinder.com) a night to stay at this place, so I figured that I had better get my money's worth. With that in mind, I stuffed myself, and I believe I would've made Hemingway proud. After I finished feasting, I made reservations at the front desk for another night, and I strolled out from Under the Ginko Tree at 11:00 am. From there, I walked a couple of blocks over to the Hemingway Museum and birthplace. The admission charge was $7 (www.ehfop.org).

As I walked up the cobblestone steps of the old Victorian home, I imagined what it must have been like to grow up as a young Ernest Hemingway. My imagination only ran wilder when I saw pictures of baby Hemingway dressed up as a girl. I'm not sure what his mother was thinking; apparently she desperately wanted a miniature version of herself, but what she got was Ernest. At this time, i could hear my stomach growling so I stepped outside to find a bite to eat, and I happened upon a hot dog stand. So, I went all out, and ordered one with everything for the outrageous price of $5. After my lunch break, it was around 2:00 pm, and I made my way back into the museum.

I heard creaking as my feet met the floorboards, and my eye was caught by a display in the center of the room. It was Hemingway's childhood diary. I reflected upon the great importance of such a diary. This was were it all began. Ernest's diary had to be of vital importance in the development of his writing skills. I felt lucky to realize what the diary must've meant to Ernest, and to appreciate the influence it made on some of his greatest and most loved works.

I made it back to the bed and breakfast at 9:00 pm that night. I spent the rest of the evening watching a History Channel documentary on Hemingway's life. I thought it was an appropriate, if not ironic, end to the day.

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Time to Hit the Road!

It's time for me to start my journey. I'll be following in the footsteps of literature's most kick-butt author of all time, Ernest Hemingway. What better way to emulate Hemingway and the legacy he left behind than visiting all of the places he held so near and dear to his heart? Exactly... Apart from growing a beard and killing a two thousand pound water buffalo with a shotgun, there is no better way. I will start my journey in Oak Park, Illinois, and then I'll book it to the many destinations around the world that Ernest graced with his presence. Alright, I'd better get going!